For 27 years, Kennecott and McCarthy had a symbiotic relationship. Kennecott was a “dry” company town with 600 single men performing dangerous work under extreme conditions. McCarthy provided entertainment in the form of saloons, restaurants, pool halls, and a red light district. As you can imagine, the historic buildings and townspeople of that time had some interesting stories to tell.

So let’s start with the place that many of these men ended up after indulging in too much entertainment, the jail. This was the kind of jail that was rarely locked. It provided a place for the rowdies to sober up and even the local taxi came by to take the miners back up the hill, 4 miles up a 3% grade, so they wouldn’t miss their next shift. Unfortunately, nothing is left of the building but an old picture. It looks like a 2-story bunkhouse.

The “free” attitude still exists today.
And we are back to map debates to navigate this 1-road town.
Wandering the side streets of McCarthy

Ma Johnson’s Hotel however was the complete opposite. It was the definition of luxury in 1923 with heat, electricity, and fresh eggs. It is one of two remaining original false fronts (think Hollywood movie set) buildings left. This was not the Johnson’s first hotel in McCarthy, however. They had started their lodging business with the McCarthy Hotel which burned down in 1921. The cause of the fire….a cigarette smoker.

There was another fire in town at the same time, the home of Kate Kennedy. Kate was the towns famous madam, appropriately nicknamed the McCarthy Madam. Her reputation was questionable, but her generosity was not. Even though her own home burned down, and no collection was started to help her rebuild, she still gave money to the Johnson’s collection to help them rebuild their hotel.

Kate Kennedy

Last historic personality, before I get to Fran, the man I met today. McCarthy had its own dress shop, and the ladies in town were decked out in the latest fashions thanks to Mrs. Snyder. Mrs. Snyder was a chorus girl in Chicago and famously said, “If you see it in Chicago, I can make it in McCarthy.”

The fashionable women of McCarthy

Now onto Fran. We were sitting on the patio at the local hotspot, The Potato, when a pristine 1920’s Model T drove by. I couldn’t believe, out here, in working condition and looking like it just came off the showroom floor. As we walked through town, we found half a dozen classic cars in the same condition parked near Ma Johnson’s Hotel. A friendly guy walked up to us and informed us that the green Model T he was driving earlier was his favorite. He is the caretaker for these cars, and is absolutely passionate about them.

Meet Fran and his favorite car of the collection

He walked us over to the General Motor’s LaSalle and let me sit inside. The back seat was more comfortable than a Lazy-boy recliner. And flanking the back of the front seat were two Tiffany vases. He told us that it was inoperable until recently when he was able to find a used distributor cap on eBay for the mere cost of $400. The cap was made out of Bakelite. He was super excited to find it; he had been looking for a really long time. Apparently these cars are stored under the deck of the general store in winter, but Fran has successfully procured a car cover for the LaSalle and it is in amazing shape. Not even an Alaskan winter can dull the amazing beauty of a group of vintage cars cared for by a passionate person.

I seriously pondered asking Fran if I could take a nap in the back. Notice the Tiffany vase between the two windows. I’m feeling some elements of car travel need to be reintroduced in modern times.

Correction: I believe this is the first correction I have made, but I felt I needed to. At the interesting McCarthy Historic Museum, they had one of those pulley cars you had to use to cross the river before the pedestrian footbridge was built in 1997. I thought it was in the shape of an enclosed ore car used by the railroad. But, no, it was much worse. It looked like a vintage teeter-totter but with sides. I was going to describe it to you, but I’ll let the photo do the talking. Remember, Mark took his two toddlers, their bicycles, and their luggage across a raging river in this thing. And it was all manually powered by the person sitting in the car.

Mark and Cat demonstrating how to sit in the car.
Historic photo from the museum. Notice the black bear between the man’s legs.
In the museum there was a whole notebook of surgeons’ notes from the hospital. The reference to “toilet privileges” made me smile.
The town has a welcoming ambassador in front of almost every business.
The 3/4 mile walk from the footbridge to McCarthy had many beautiful stops.

2 responses to “Alaska Field Report – The Town of McCarthy”

  1. Very interesting article, pamphotograpy! Great photographs too!

    I have seen “toilet privileges” order written down in medical charts in 1990s. I don’t know whether practitioners still write it down as such today.

    1. Thank you! I think I could have spent an hour looking through the hospital notebook 🙂

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